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Health & Fitness

Food Review: The Brass Rail Delivers Great Service, Crab Cakes

When Scott Ellinger bought The Brass Rail restaurant on Feb. 15th, 2012, he took a failing business and turned it around.

One night a few months ago, my friend Eric and I were hanging out at another friend’s house.  On our way home we decided to go to a local bar and grill for a
drink.   We are always up to try something new, so we stopped in at The Brass Rail off South Highway K, in the same shopping center as Friar Tuck’s.  We
had both been there before but it had been a couple of years ago for me.  I didn’t remember anything particularly special about my first visit.  It must have not been a good experience since I didn’t go back for two years.

We walked in and it immediately noticed it was a busy night.  The only room to sit was two seats all the way at the end of the bar.  So we squeezed in and ordered a drink.  The bartender asked our names after she got our drink order and bought the drinks quickly.  She was very efficient and kept a pleasant smile the entire time we were there, calling us by name each time she addressed us.  I noticed that the people around me were consuming some rather delicious-looking meals.  Eric and I enjoyed our beverage and conversation; emptied our glasses then went home.

A couple of weeks later, I decided to stop in for an encore.  The excellent service that Eric and I received had me thinking that I should try the place again, and the memories of the plates of food encouraged me to go at dinner time.  I was met at the door by a beautiful greeter; she led me to the bar to take a seat.  My
server this time was different, but the same smile and efficient service met me
as soon as I sat down.  She told me about the special; crab cakes.  She informed me that they are a specialty of The Brass Rail. Scott, the owner flies in fresh
crab just for the crab cakes.  I was told that they usually sell out before the evening is over.  Being a Midwesterner, I steered away from the seafood and ordered a chicken dish.  The food was brought out in a short time and was undeniably delicious.  I thought to myself that I would have to come back for dinner again.  But before I left, I took notice that indeed, there were many customers enjoying the special.  Crab cakes were on most of the
tables throughout the restaurant. 

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I believe the greatest impact made on me that night about The Brass Rail was made by the servers. Each waitress, whether behind the bar or navigating the dining area were always wearing smiles, laughing, and having fun.  It looked as if they were actually enjoying their time even though they were at work.

The next week, a business partner flew into town from Massachusetts.  For three days, we spent time around the St. Louis area visiting clients and enjoying a few meals together.  It turned out that he is a gastronome like me.  Being from the East coast, one of his favorite foods to enjoy is crab cakes.  I immediately thought of The Brass Rail’s crab cakes.  I told him about the place and he told me what a good crab cake should contain, look and taste like.  I tucked that information in the back of my brain, still unsure that I would try any crab cakes anytime soon in Missouri.

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The next week found me and Eric back at The Brass Rail.  The night’s special?  You guessed it.  Crab cakes. So, I decided to pony up and try the dish.  The waitress assured me (with the same beautiful smile I had become used to) that I made a good choice.  When the two cakes arrived in front of me, I remembered my East coast friend’s description and noted that these cakes passed the first test.  They were large, round, and full of crab.  In fact, there was so much crab meat in them that one immediately fell apart as soon as the plate was sat in front of me.

Scott Ellinger owns The Brass Rail.  He has been in the area for about seven
years.  He has over 20 years of experience in the food industry, some here and some in the Baltimore area.  His time spent on the East Coast allowed him
to learn veritably how to prepare seafood.  And learn he did.

I dug into the mounds of crab cakes.  The taste was amazing.  The crab was delicate, creamy, and not a bit fishy tasting at all.  The filling was there only to hold the large lumps of crab together and had a spicy, but not overwhelming addition to the crab.  I was pleased…and full.  I was glad that I took a leap of faith and ordered the dish.  It turns out that Scott’s time in Baltimore allowed him to clinch his recipe for the titillating dish.

Since then I have been back a few times.  Each dish I have ordered has been top
notch.  From the steak to the soup, each meal is scrumptious.  The freshly made
pub chips are great; and even better when topped with the blue cheese sauce.  The service is splendid.  The servers are consistently smiling and obviously enjoy what they do.  I perpetually feel that whether I am enjoying a meal or just having a drink with a friend, I am at a comfortable place, able to relax and appreciate a little peace in a busy, laborious world.

The Brass Rail has quickly become one of my new favorite local places for good food and drink.   A random stop at The Brass Rail a few months earlier allowed me to discover that the new owner had turned things around at the corner restaurant.  The excellent service, beautiful smiles, and enjoyable banter from the servers encouraged me to return.  The palatable food has me coming back again and again.

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